FAQs

SHARKHIDE can be applied to Aluminum, Polished Aluminum, Diamond Plate, Copper, Brass, Steel, Stainless Steel, or any other metal you want to prevent from staining and discoloring.

SHARKHIDE is virtually invisible on any metal surface other than a high polished surface. On a high polish finish, SHARKHIDE when wiped on, can sometimes leave a slight rainbow sheen, like on a soap bubble. This will some what lessen with a second coat and it also tends to diminish with time.

Yes, SHARKHIDE can be applied to dull painted surfaces that are beginning to get chalky and oxidized. SHARKHIDE will prevent the chalky finish from returning as well as bring back a rich shiny finish.

Yes, SHARKHIDE restores the appearance of old faded Gel Coat as well as sealing it off so it won’t take on a permanent water line.

NO! SHARKHIDE will not EVER yellow or discolor.

SHARKHIDE will protect your surfaces from water (fresh, salt, brackish), acid rain, salt spray, humidity, alkaline, soot, and all road deicers (known at this time).

NO!!! SHARKHIDE is a metal protectant, NOT an “Anti Fouling” bottom paint.

On things like Motorcycles, Street Rods, Aircraft and other things that see limited fair weather use, it’s not uncommon to get 6 or more years of protection between coats. On heavily used things like Big rigs, Dump trailers, Fire and Rescue equipment, you may need to re coat every 1 to 4 years. On boats that are kept on the trailer, or on a lift, it’s not uncommon to get 3 to 5 years of protection. If you leave your boat in the slip all season long, from the water line down, it may last a month, or it may last a couple of years. There are just too many variables such as water conditions and content, as well as severity of marine growth etc. But from the water line up, you can expect the same protection as any other boat.

SHARKHIDE can be applied by wipe, spray, brush, or dip, depending on the surface texture and desired finish. Generally speaking, for a smooth finish, the preferred method is to wipe it on.

A WHITE COTTON BABY DIAPER is the best cloth for the job.

Since we’ve not tested all other types of applicators, we can only tell you to avoid the following things. Lint, textures (such as Teri Cloth, or Micro Fibers), dyes, detergent residue, dry cleaning chemicals, sponges or any thing else that will leave anything behind in the SHARKHIDE clear coat. Since a Cotton Baby Diaper has none of these properties, why not stick to that?

No, they will not sufficiently atomize the SHARKHIDE and it will create runs.

Yes, but SHARKHIDE is difficult to spray due to its thin viscosity as well as it’s very rapid dry time. Practice setting your gun on a scrap piece of metal so it doesn’t leave dry streaks, or runs before you try it on your project.

SHARKHIDE can be applied at any temperature. Keep in mind however, the cooler the temperature, the longer it takes to dry, so it has more time to flow out leaving a smoother finish. So in other words, you’ll get a better finish at 50 degrees, than at 90 degrees.

Yes you can, but keep in mind, although it may be a cool 65 degree day, the metals surface temperature may be 90 degrees or higher. So try to avoid direct sunlight if at all possible

SHARKHIDE will dry to the touch in about 60 to 90 seconds in 75 degree temperatures. Faster in warmer temperatures, and slower in colder temperatures.

Although not required, we strongly recommend at least two coats. Since SHARKHIDE is a clear liquid, it’s very easy to miss spots. With a second coat, it’s virtually impossible to miss the same spot twice.

Put Lacquer Thinner in a quart spray bottle, set the spray nozzle to a fine spray, and concentrate the spray in about a two foot area. Continuously spray the area without allowing the thinner to evaporate. Once the SHARKHIDE softens and turns to a jell, swipe it away with paper towels

Yes, you can put 3 or more coats on since SHARKHIDE is such a thin film. You can’t put too many on.

You can put a second coat on immediately, however, it’s better if you’ll allow the SHARKHIDE to “Cure” first before a second coat.

Although SHARKHIDE dries to the touch in just a few seconds, there’s still solvents evaporating out of the finish. This can take as little as 2 or 3 hours, or as long as 24 or more hours depending on temperature and humidity.

If you allow SHARKHIDE to “Cure” Before you re coat, the second coat will not have enough time to dissolve the first, leaving you with a double build up, which means longer protection time between re coating.

No. There is no preparation needed before you apply a second coat. SHARKHIDE is “Self Etching” (melts and blends into the first coat) so it will blend into your first coat without layers or seams.

No. All you need to do is wash the surface with warm soap and water, rinse, dry, and apply the new coat.

Simply use a mild warm soap and water solution just as you would on your car.

Any petroleum based product like gasoline, solvents, thinners, or any other product’s that contain petroleum’s, such as waxes and polish’s. Also some acid’s and certain cleaners. Since it’s absolutely impossible to test all product’s for their effects on SHARKHIDE, don’t apply anything other than a mild soap solution and you shouldn’t have any problems.

SHARKHIDE can be easily removed with Lacquer Thinner no matter how long it’s been on a surface.

Simply saturate a cloth or paper towel with Lacquer Thinner and scrub it off.

No it will not. As a matter of fact, no acid based aluminum cleaner, no matter what brand, will put a "shine" back on old aluminum. The factory finish on all aluminum (unless polished) is known as the "Mill Finish". This nice shiny silver color is a bi product of the process used in the mills to roll aluminum ingots into sheet form. Once this finish is gone, it can NEVER be re produced.

That depends on how strong you mix it. When mixed at a weaker ratio, about 10 to 1 or so, it will slowly remove slight stains and oxidation leaving a fairly shiny finish assuming that the original mill finish still exists. But when mixed at a strong ratio, up to about 4 to 1, SHARKHIDE Aluminum Cleaner will bleach aluminum to a uniform off white finish.

There are a few things you can do. Use a coarse Scotch-Brite pad and a trickle of water and rub in small tight circles. This will leave a soft shine like "brushed Aluminum". Or you can use SHARKHIDE Metal Polish and bring your aluminum to a mirror like reflective finish.

No. When cleaning a boat hull, use a pressure washer and a #2 (10 deg) tip to first "Cut off" the moss and algae while it's still wet. Then go back and scrub off any residue with a coarse Scotch-Brite pad and a garden hose. Now your ready to apply SHARKHIDE Aluminum Cleaner.

It's best applied with a quart "Trigger" type spray bottle. Use one that has an adjustable nozzle that can be set down to a very fine mist. Using a garden sprayer or pressure washer to apply will just use more cleaner than needed.

No it won't. Although we can't possibly test our product on every type of paint and vinyl used today, we can say that in over twelve years of our customers using SHARKHIDE Aluminum Cleaner, we have not had one single instance of damage reported due to the cleaner. But still test a small out of the way spot to be sure.

No. Wax is simply a coating left on a on a surface to temporarily protect it from the elements. Metal Polish is a compound designed to remove a microscopic thin layer of the surface material and leave a flat, reflective surface.

Yes. You can also use it on brass, copper, stainless steel, chrome, gold, silver, fiberglass, as well as taking scratches out of Acrylic, and Lexan windshields.

Yes you can. But you'll want to stick to the smaller jobs. Use a buffer for the larger areas. It's a lot faster and much easier on you.

It's best to use a high quality 7" variable speed buffer with a lambs wool, terry cloth, or hard foam pad.

No. Don't worry about the film. It contains the abrasive's from the polish as well as very fine metal particles that will help in the polishing process.

No it won't. You'll need a different product like Sharkhide Aluminum Cleaner for that.

It's effective on Pre Painted Aluminum panels, Fiberglass panels, FRP (fiberglass reinforced plywood) panels, as well as some plastics.

Yes it is. However, on extremely dead and oxidized painted finishes use caution. The paint is so thin due to years of weathering and exposure, it can sometimes be completely wiped off and expose the bare aluminum. Always test a small inconspicuous area first.

For smaller jobs like Utility Trailers, Pontoon Boats, and such, a quart is usually enough. For larger Trailers, Campers, Motor Homes, and House Boats, two quart's to a gallon is normally enough.

YES! Sharkhide Black Streak Remover is ONLY EFFECTIVE AT TEMPERATURES ABOVE 72 DEGREES

All you need to do is wipe the surface off with a dry Terri Cloth Towel before you apply it.

All you need to do is use a very small amount and lightly mist the stain.

Only mist very small areas at a time, because you NEVER want the Sharkhide Black Streak Remover to dry.

It works best if you let the stain soak for ten to fifteen seconds. You may need to mist it a couple of times to be sure it doesn't dry out.

You can simply wipe the stain away with a dry Teri Cloth towel, or hit it with a soft bristle brush and rinse with water.

No. It's best to apply when the surfaces are dry.